- Food & Booze
Relaxed New Bistro Opens in Brisbane’s CBD
30 Apr 2014
Greeted by wall-to-wall cherry blossoms and the tantalising smell of roasting pork belly, The Eatery is the kind of place where you instantly switch to cruise mode, sink into your chair, and wistfully wish you could stay just a little longer. With executive chef Desmond Carneiro behind the wheel of the restaurant, part of the brand spanking new Four Points by Sheraton hotel on Mary Street, we were delighted to be invited to road test The Eatery menu for ourselves. Uncomplicated and easygoing, The Eatery has put together a menu that reminds you of an old friend; heart-warmingly familiar, fuss free and immensely enjoyable. From handmade pumpkin gnocchi to a 100% wagyu beef burger, The Eatery serves up food you know and love, and don’t need a dictionary/second language to interpret. But just because it’s simple doesn’t mean it’s easy to do. As any self-respecting foodie will tell you, it’s often the unassuming elements that require the most finesse to execute well. Take pan-seared barramundi for example; too short a time in the pan and your looking at something like your great aunt’s flan. Too long and you may as well whip out the garden saw and be done with it. And then there’s that often missed middle ground: delightfully crisp skin, glossy white flesh that flakes away on the fork and a delicate buttery sauce that’s a little decadent, but won’t leave you wishing you wore your Christmas pants. We’re happy to report The Eatery hit all the latter notes, with velvety whipped potato, wilted spinach and a sprinkling of tart capers to boot. Other menu highlights include the Reuben sandwich (feat delightfully tangy house made sauerkraut, a cracking Russian dressing and a generous serve of crunchy beer battered chips) and my personal favourite; the crispy Berkshire pork belly with perfectly pan seared scallops, a smooth cauliflower puree and a wonderfully sharp pineapple and chilli salsa. In the sweets department, The Eatery delivers some serious sugary goodness, all prepared in house. We sampled two desserts; the sinfully decadent double (DOUBLE) chocolate tart, smothered in berries and topped with a generous dollop of French vanilla ice cream, and an incredible tiramisu chocka block with caramel macchiato sauce, espresso chocolate garnishes and a short black jelly (hello caffeine!). All in all, The Eatery serves up unpretentious food that’s low on fuss, but brimming with detail. If you’re looking for The Next Big Thing In Dehydrated Sauces, then keep on walking. If you’re after humble, flavoursome dishes done right, then we may have just found your new best friend. Words by Sam Geldard This article was produced in association with Four Points by Sheraton. Thank you for supporting the sponsors who make the Gourmand and Gourmet possible.