An unpretentious Italian: Prosecco in review | Gourmand and Gourmet

An unpretentious Italian: Prosecco in review

There’s something very admirable about a grape just wanting to be itself. In the sparkling wine world this is a bit of a rarity. At the top end winemakers throw all sorts of techniques at predominately Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, desperately trying to beat out the basic core vinus character of the grape while at the same time imparting the mysterious and wonderful secondary and tertiary aromas (oyster shell, baked bread and so on) that seems to come with relative ease to the wines of Sparkling’s most famous home Champagne. The problem is that back here is doesn’t really work that often. When it does it’s pretty damn good but generally has a price tag that rivals its French friends, and when it doesn’t, well I’d really rather drink something else. And this my friends, is where Prosecco fits in. It’s generally not an intellectual experience. It’s not waiting for age under cork, time on lees or barrel to give it its kick. It’s one grape variety from the super cool King Valley, fermented in tank and bottle (thankfully) under crown seal – it’s gently at ease just the way it is. Pale straw / green in colour with simple fresh aromas of apple and white flowers, its crisp palate has lemon and lime flavours balanced by some sweetness that gives it a light sweet and sour character. But the best thing about Prosecco is you don’t have to pretend it something it’s not. So stop looking for the freshly bakes brioche aromas or the perfect food match and quaff it at will. It makes a pretty good Bellini or apertivo as well. NV Dal Zotto Prosecco   King Valley, Victoria                        Craft Red Hill – $24.00 Words by Simon Hill